[Madmartagen]

good job man, thats good work. what is that material in the first pic, is that some kind of plastic?

[Short Hand]

[quote=jujumantb]

Originally Posted by "$p!k3":9ad53

Nice job man!

beer:

edit: nice crotch shot

thanks, that speaker in the background trying to get in ruined it though annoy:[/quote:9ad53]
I hate to chop you but.......

If this is a "audio" qaulity" etc system.... then why would you place your tweeters so low & so close to that sub....... Your losing to much when you do that....(talk about highs being strangled) Not to mention you have gone sealed.... I would have gone with some CDT classic components and mounted the tweeter higher in the door......

+ I hope that box for the sub is made with 3/4 + MDF, if it is particle board/ply wood/fibre glass... you need to be shot. Good choice for a subwoofer though, ED's produce some qaulity stuff.

[Old Reliable]

in a buick regal





o_0

[jujumantb]

Originally Posted by Madmartagen

good job man, thats good work. what is that material in the first pic, is that some kind of plastic?

Its fiberglass, the same stuff surfboards, wakeboards, and I think snowboards are made of, very light and VERY strong. You can do LOTS of cool stuff with it, takes awhile to get good at fabricating with ti though, you can pick it up at and home depot or lowes or some walmarts. Its just fiberglass cloth (or mat) and fiberglass polyester resin. A gallon of resin is around $30 and the mat is like $5/yard.

No speakers in the trunk, here are pics, when I find carpet matching the stock stuff, I'll recover this piece
[url=http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/15611240217.jpg&s=x4:0c573][img]http://x4.putfile.com/6/15611240217-thumb.jpg[/img][/url:0c573]
Here it is without the cover, you can see the fans and the LEDs around the amp, looks cool at night, glows green. Also there is a line driver and 13 band graphic equalizer. There is piece of plexiglass over the amp in the middl, kinda hard to see.
[url=http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/15611242520.jpg&s=x4:0c573][img]http://x4.putfile.com/6/15611242520-thumb.jpg[/img][/url:0c573]

[quote:0c573]I hate to chop you but.......

If this is a "audio" qaulity" etc system.... then why would you place your tweeters so low & so close to that sub....... Your losing to much when you do that....(talk about highs being strangled) Not to mention you have gone sealed.... I would have gone with some CDT classic components and mounted the tweeter higher in the door......

+ I hope that box for the sub is made with 3/4 + MDF, if it is particle board/ply wood/fibre glass... you need to be shot. Good choice for a subwoofer though, ED's produce some qaulity stuff. [/quote:0c573]
I hate to chop you back but you obviously dont know much about this stuff Let me explain...
[quote:0c573]then why would you place your tweeters so low & so close to that sub....... Your losing to much when you do that....(talk about highs being strangled)[/quote:0c573]
I spent alot of time playing with the aiming of the tweeter and woofer before fixing the baffle in place, with a good install, you cannot tell that the tweeters are low, like in this one, the soundstage is eyelevel. Keeping the tweeter next to the midwoofer is the prefered method of installation in SQ installs. Think of home audio, the tweeter is ALWAYS within a few inches of the woofer it is sharing a crossover point with. People can pull off a good sounding system with the midwoofer down low and the tweeter up in the a-pillar, but it is much more difficult to get to sound right, most SQ comp winners are set up like mine.
About the tweeters being close to the sub... WTF? That makes no sense... strangled highs??? youre just making stuff up now... Again, think about home audio, there are $10,000 towers with with the sub, mid, and tweeter rigth next to eachother, highs dont get "strangled", soundwaves dont interact like that, especially ones 3 octaves different. An ideal system would be ONE single pair driver capable of playing 20hz-20khz, of course that technology doesnt exist, but that further illustrates how your comment makes no sense.

[quote:0c573]Not to mention you have gone sealed....[/quote:0c573]
I'll assume you are reffering to the sub. Yes, I have gone sealed. If you knew about sub enclosures you would know that a sealed box EASILY has the best transient response of any box. You would also know that, after cabin gain is factored in, a sealed box naturally has the flattest in car response, the goal of a true SQ system. So sealed NATURALLY sounds better, and plays flatter (in car) than ported. 90% of SQ systems have sealed subs, the other 10% are infinite baffle. Very few run ported, it just doesnt make sense to do in most every SQ application.
[quote:0c573]I would have gone with some CDT classic components and mounted the tweeter higher in the door...... [/quote:0c573]
Those are CDT classics, but, again, that method of installation is much more difficult to pull off, its a quick way to lift your soundstage up, but you get into lots of trouble with that crossover point and the drivers being so far apart.
[quote:0c573]+ I hope that box for the sub is made with 3/4 + MDF, if it is particle board/ply wood/fibre glass... [/quote:0c573]
the base is made of 3/4" MDF and the rest is 5-6 layers of fiberglass, the thing is indesructable

[quote:0c573]in a buick regal [/quote:0c573]
Why yes, good eye

[Short Hand]

I have been learning over the past year all the great things about car audio from probably the best in Canada (aka Sounder Light Owner "Lou"), the guy has been doing this shit since 1971"""" The first in Canada to do what he does. When I came to him with my new car months back, I asked him for something similar to yours, (the mounting set up) He gave me a look... then a lecture, he then showed me his old mini, he brought me in and started it up.... THE best fucking audio experience of MY life. All I can say is mounting the speakers in the door would have been easier, and possibly sound much better, I can't really vouche for their placement all that well though, I have sat in a buick regal maybe once... All I know is that if that is how it was done
in my cavalier......it would sound terrible. (fucking horrid)

From what I can see, you know your shit and have already thought all of this out. So my bashing on the install were a bit over zealous at that. ed: Ya you do know more then me, but that doesn't mean that you can't make mistakes, or be always right with this stuff. Who knows, maybe tripper could make a mistake tommrow on irc about something to do with hip hop history, and then I correct him....(I wish) + don't regals have mounts for tweeters built right into the dash ? I know our old rendevous did.

[quote:faeb4]but you get into lots of trouble with that crossover point and the drivers being so far apart. [/quote:faeb4]

-the 1.5 foot gap between the tweeter mount and the lower speaker is not an issue, not to mention the time correction feature on any decent HU can help solve this problem. Any Alpine deck offering the I-personalize feature goes above and beyond the call of tuning your system.

-In any case, I always prefer a ported solution for my subwoofer setup. Hell I enjoy bandpass setups more then sealed.



-If you want to see my new system, ill pm you in a second with my cardomain link,

[jujumantb]

[quote:3994a]-the 1.5 foot gap between the tweeter mount and the lower speaker is not an issue, not to mention the time correction feature on any decent HU can help solve this problem. Any Alpine deck offering the I-personalize feature goes above and beyond the call of tuning your system. [/quote:3994a]
Time correction has nothing to do with this. Time correction is to help make your rear speakers or subs sound like they're up front, and also to imitate the left and right speakers being the same distance from you ears, it will not help having you highs coming from a tweeter up in the a-pillar and mids coming from down low sound good. Again, this type of setup can be accomplished and sound good, just as the way my setup can sound good aswell. There is little right and wrong in car audio when it comes to stuff like this, if the installer knows what they're doing, alot of stuff that seems impractical can have amazing results.

Also learning from one guy is fine, especially if he is great at what he does, but in my experience, I've found that people, especially hardcore audiophiles, are VERY stubborn when it comes to this stuff, they have THEIR way of doing things in which they will defend to the end, even if their way isnt truely the best or easiest way of doing things.
[quote:3994a]-In any case, I always prefer a ported solution for my subwoofer setup. Hell I enjoy bandpass setups more then sealed.[/quote:3994a]
Ported is a fine way of boxing up a sub, it is a very efficient design and can get very loud. They are also the easiest to make have a truely flat frequency response donw to 20hz. If you ever have used a box modeling program like winISD to build boxes, its easy to see how nice and flat you can get a ported box's response. Sadly enough, there are two big faults that ported boxes have for a car audio SQ setup:
1) Remember that nice flat response of ported boxes I was talking about, well once you put that box in a car, you can forget all about it, you will get a HUGE peak in the lowend of the response. THis is due to cabin gain, which is a term used for the effect the enclosed space in a car has on the respnse of a sub, it is usually a peak anywhere from 30-50hz depending on the car, the smaller the car, the higher the peak, hence why small hatchbacks and such are so often used in SPL competitions. In a home audio application, a big ol' room experiences very little "cabin gain", hence, ported boxes are almost always unsed in home audio. If you used winISD to model up a sealed box, you would see that the response drops off as you go down to lower frequencies. This seems bad, but when you add cabin gain to that response, you will usually get a pretty damn flat in car reponse requiring very little EQing to be perfectl flat.
2) The second fault of ported boxes is poor transient response. You can have the greatest sub in the world, but put it in a poorly designed box, it will sound like crap, a box has a HUGE effect on how the sub will perform. Transient response is more or less the way a sub goes from frequency to frequency, good transient response will sound like the sub is hitting every note perfectly, a poor one will sound muddled together. A ported box has a poor transient response, and the lower you tune, IIRC, the worse it gets. The effect of transient response isnt always extremly audible, if you've ever heard like a JL W7 in its HO box, you know a good sub in a good ported box will play notes pretty accurately, although refer to #1, not flat . The biggest problem of poor transient response is in the higher bass frequencies (60-90hz), where the critical crossover point of the sub and the mids is. With a poor transient, this juction never seems to blend together well and it is quite apparent which notes the sub is playing and which the mids are playing, sounding torn appart near thte corssover point. A sealed box has an excellent transient response and does not suffer form these problems.

A note on bandpass:
They are incredibly efficient boxes, even moreso than ported, I've never heard a custom built one which I am assuming you are talking about, any prefab bandpass box you can buy at stores sound like utter crap, they are designed for a large peak and have the worst transient response of any box. From what you say you like, you definitly sound like a classic basshead nothing wrong with that, I used to be aswell, but now prefer accurate reproduction of music instead of bass intense reproduction, though I enjoy a nice bass sytem still every now and then, even my next setup could go back to SPL, we'll see.
And sure, I'd love to have a look at you install, hit me up!

[Short Hand]

I sent the pm with the link in it, sorry for the harsh bashing and all, I should have known better (kinda forgot how hardcore you are into Car Audio). details in the pm. (aka check pms)

Just kind of ticked about car audio in general right now, my freind dumped 500 $ in to flame compression audiobahn pos, it seems all he cares about it the pretty looks and punch of the bass. Even after me and a dozen of people reccomended he buy 1 Type X over those 2 pos. (Me I prefer loud clean tight bass)

EDIT + jI am not a fan of kick panals, mainly because the setups I have heard with them in sound like shiiite, but i guess you know your shit, hope they sound good.